Conflicted on selling my car, need advice.

Hey guys,

So here’s my problem. I put up my car for sale recently and I’m asking $3700 (but I’ll take like $2300) the KBB value ranges from $3500-$4500.

It’s seriously a piece of shit even though nothing is currently broken. In the last year it has cost me $3700 to keep alive in repairs! I know I’m an idiot for not selling it earlier but I was a broke college kid (and this car made me super broke). The car is actually very nice looking and the interior is great. But I just have this terrible feeling that it’s going to have another $1000+ expenditure in the next month or two. The engine shakes a little only noticeable to me but I feel something wrong is lurking (possible engine mounts).

I’ve taken it to two mechanics since the shaking started and they said it’s fine. But here is the deal I’m selling my car “as is” but I honestly feel bad taking anymore than like $2,300 for it. I just have this feeling whoever buys it will have a broken POS in the next two months.

How do I sell this without feeling bad? Or is there no way.

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I test drove the Tesla Model 3 Performance, here are my impressions.

I test drove the Tesla Model 3 Performance (P3D) over the weekend, since I was seriously considering it as my next DD. Here are some of my impressions. I gave a review of the LR Model 3 before so I’m not going to cover areas such as interior tech or Auto Pilot, as those remain the same with P3D. This post will be focused on driving dynamics.

Background: I currently daily drive an F80 M3, which according to Elon was the benchmark when Tesla was developing the Performance Model 3. I’ve also had some experiences with the other cars in this segment, but nothing too extensive.

Disclaimer: This post isn’t meant to be an objective analysis of the car. I’m neither a professional journalist nor do I have extensive track experiences. All following opinions are personal and are formed from a 25 mins long spirited (but within safety limit) test drive session on public road. If you aren’t interested or don’t find this useful feel free to downvote and move on 🙂

Drivetrain:

Without a doubt the best part of this car, and for many the sole reason for buying a Tesla. As expected it’s lighting quick and gives you the uncomfortable feeling from acceleration just like the other Performance Teslas. What also impressed me was the state of the art traction control and how easy it was to put the power down. On a not-perfectly-paved public street I think the P3D can reach 30mph before my M3 can even grab traction. For stoplight drag races or zooming around the town the P3D will curb stomp any competition in this class (or even ICE cars from classes above) any day of the week and twice on Sundays. At 40-50mph+ the magic wears off a little, and I think my M3 is a bit quicker from that point on simply due to better power/weight ratio, but it’s still way faster than anyone’s daily needs.

Oh did I mention how easy it was to abuse this power? No downshift, no launch control, just jab the throttle. You can do it repeatedly like turning on/off a light switch. The beauty of EV at its best, which makes it a much better daily driver in traffic than my M3 as well (ok tbf due to that DCT even a Prius is better than my M3 for daily traffic).

But for people who are into cars, they know M3 isn’t known for drag races, which brings us to:

Steering:

I really enjoyed the steering of the LR Model 3. The P3D is definitely differently tuned from the base version. The steering ratio felt quicker, and most noticeably, the steering weight was heavy in Sport Mode. It felt even heavier than M3’s Sport+ mode, which is commonly criticized for being artificially weighty. Although the steering was quick and precise, unfortunately it offered a lot less feedback when compared to my M3. My gut feeling is that unlike the M3, the P3D uses the exact same hardware setup for steering as the regular Model 3, but with different software tuning for weight. It’s quite good, but half a notch below the best in this class.

Handling:

The upgrade in tires from the LR Model 3 made a huge difference here. While the base version didn’t have much body roll, the car would start to slide like a dead penguin on ice when pushed closer to its limit (and the limit was quite easy to reach even on public roads). The P3D actually comes with the same tires as my M3, and I can now safely say nobody should have any real issue with the handling/traction on public roads.

However the car is heavy, and the weight was constantly felt. My M3 has been feeling like a minivan ever since I drove a Porsche 911 GTS with all wheel steering a couple weeks ago, but after driving the P3D i truly appreciated again how “light’ my M3 feels. In addition to the chassis not giving much feedback, the car just feels less “lively” and playful. It’s highly capable (and I wouldn’t be surprised if it’s faster than the M3 on shorter tracks), but quite a bit more sterile as far as driving experiences go. This is mainly the reason I think I’ll still enjoy my M3 a lot more on Skyline Blvd.

Oh btw, even though I’m not sure how this car will do on the track, I have a feeling it will be an auto cross monster.

The Whole Package:

But the big question is, is the car worth the $10-15k premium over the non-P AWD Model 3? A bit of comparison here, BMW charges about the same for a M3 over a 340i. But for that price you get not just faster/bigger engine, you get completely different suspension and steering hardware, way better brakes, carbon fiber roof, best leather interior BMW offers along with the best sport seats, and not a single body panel is shared between the M3 and a regular 3 series. It looks and feels special inside out.

The P3D, however, doesn’t feel (or even look) much different from a LR Model 3 when you are not flooring the car. My Sales Advisor even had trouble finding the car in the lot amid a bunch of other Model 3s. So it’s almost like the whole premium is for the acceleration performance (and the better tires if you get the Performance Package). To me it’s not a very good value proposition especially since users are reporting the AWD Model 3s feel just as quick in 0-30ish, but for many who just want the best acceleration money can buy at this price range, then it’s still unbeatable.

It’s a fantastic car, not perfect by any stretch, but if I can only own one car at a time, the P3D would be the way to go. But personally I am leaning toward non-P dual motor one and save $10-15k. That should be enough to get me heated and powered seats on the Porsche 718GTS I’ve been configuring for a while now…

EDIT: Oh I forgot to mention, the P3D can really, really use a HUD. When you can go from 0-jail in like 4 seconds, you really don’t want to have to take your eyes off the road to look at the speedo while taking a turn at [censored] mph.

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Not sure if this is OK, but am just really excited about our new car (Passat 2017) and just felt like sharing!

So we had an Audi A4 avant 2010 TFSI 180hp (12k km) before, and had nothing but problems with it. First it ran like 500 km and drank 1.6 liters of oil, but the dealership fixed it, and then we had a exchange breaks and cooler pump in short succession, and we basically spent a small fortune to fix all the problems. I was really really bummed out about the whole thing, and felt like shit because it really screwed with our (me and wife) savings, and it was sort of at the same time as our daughter came to this world, she is 3 months old now.

I was happy with the audi, if it weren’t for the TFSI engine being thirsty as hell for oil, we probably wouldn’t have changed cars. We bought the audi with cash 1.5 years ago, at a used car dealership, but they were scumbags and basically tricked us into the whole thing.

Anyway, we just now today got us a new car, a Volkswagen Passat 2017 TSI ACT 150HP, and we have a different financial method this time around, so everything feels great right now. It’s a really basic fitted passat, but still has a lot of really handy accessories I really appreciate (like adaptive cruise control, parking sensors, DSG gearbox etc) and Im just really happy about it. It was tough finding a petrol car, as the market here in Sweden is flooded with diesels right now with the EU tightening restrictions on diesels in a few years.

It’s not like it’s a must have for us to have a car at the end of the day, but the quality of life and flexibility that it allows us to have is a very big deal. We only drive like 10000km per year so it’s a good deal for us. If we have more cash and would drive a lot more, I would want a hybrid or electric car, but we can’t afford or justify that right now.

Anyway, just wanted to share, thanks! 😀

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Was in a fender-bender a few months ago, Carfax on my car now says “Structural damage reported?”

About a year ago I was in a fender bender that resulted in the other person swerving and clipping part of my bumper.

I dropped it off at the shop, and it was fixed and returned to me with no issue. They simply replaced the bumper with an updated 2018 version at my request.

Now, as I went to trade in my car yesterday, the dealer pulled up my Carfax and offered me an insane low-ball offer since it now reports structural damage.

This was the extent of the initial damage,, and I have a hard time believing that a scrape could have lead to frame damage. I have no idea about where this came from and was never told anything about this from either my insurance or body shop.

My body shop has no idea and was unhelpful to say the least, and simply blew me off. Haven’t tried contacting my insurance yet.

Any advice, Reddit?

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